Japan occupied the archipelago, which stretches over 2400 km, more isolated from the rest of the world. Its geographical position and long periods of his political and cultural isolation, have fueled the perception of its uniqueness. However, Japan is largely influenced by neighboring countries, especially China, which is proud of the ancient and highly developed civilization, when Japan still living in the stone age. It is only natural that Japan would seek guidance from their neighbors in matters of technology, religion, economics, and even fashion.
Japanese political structure was also influenced by Chinese tradition, though rather ineffectively. Before 7 century, Japan was divided between several clans, presided over the incompetent ruler. Then, in 645 AD, the Fujiwara clan rose to power and continued to forge the fate of Japan.
Junihitoe and Heian era
to 9 century, a powerful Fujiwara clan head is made governor of the reigning emperor. Heian era (794-1185 AD) began. Known as the first major peak of Japanese culture, Heian period was characterized by courtly elegance. Indeed, the aristocracy was great interest in clothes. Japanese noblewomen wore junihitoe or "12 unlined garments. It consisted of twelve unlined garment of different colors, worn one on top of another in such a way to narrow the range of each garment was visible on the neck, sleeves and hem.
layered color patterns junihitoe reflects status, seasons, and virtue, among other things. the art of dressing is more highly respected moral values and personal characteristics. It was discovered by the holder of art and nature.
Under junihitoe, women wore kosode or "small sleeves". T-shape made of white silk underwear was composed of two rectangular pieces of fabric sewn together at center back and on the edges. Two additional pieces of cloth were added to the forefront. collar and sleeves, with a small hole for the joints, are attached at the end. Kosode, the forerunner of kimono, had to be placed on the body every time he put on.
Heian nobles wore dsode or "large sleeves". a great cloak had a wide sleeves with large wrist and was worn with long, full pants.
out of court, people lived simple, frugal life. The farmers could only afford the base fiber, and most had never seen a fine silk worn by the nobility. lavish existence of elites has met much criticism from the less privileged and the provincial leaders of the clan, which will eventually lead to loss of Fujiwara.
Kosode the Edo era
in the period 1185-1333 AD can be transferred to the military dictators known as Shogun. Officially ruled in the name of the emperor, but are actually independent. Their military retainers are samurai. Both Samurai and the Shogun lived in accordance with Zen Buddhist ideals and the dress is just a virtue. volume of clothing decreased layer by layer and kosode, which was once underwear has become shogun outdoor attire. On the other hand, anti-armor was far from easy.
Kyoto natives dressed in colorful robes and armor from Japan's famous samurai. With the rise of samurai, kosode gained popularity, because it symbolizes the warriors' humble origins and was more suited for equestrian, military life.
By the 16th century, products made in Japan began to appear in western markets and European traders became fascinated with the mysterious countries where these magnificent buildings were constructed. Portuguese were the first Europeans to come to 1543rd They brought with them food crops from the Americas, as well as muskets, which would put an end to baronial wars. a new force emerged, the Tokugawa shogunate (1615-1868), whose capital was moved to Edo, present-day Tokyo.
It was the second part of the Edo period that kosode the development reached its peak. This is mainly due to advances in fabric-making techniques, such as Kasuri (ikat) or resist-dyeing; shiba (tie-dye), in which areas of the fabric are tied off before painting, yuzen, paste-resist-dyed fabrics patterned with Freehand, brush-applied colorants and Shiro age, in which the design is reserved exclusively for the paste-resist dyeing. Designers and craftsmen have also contributed to the elegance and beauty kosode the beauty in black and white clothes with intricate, colorful surface design.
Women cosode vary in style according to their social status, young, unmarried women wore colorful furisode, version kosode with long, dangling sleeves. older women kosode allowed for prescribed changes in sleeve length and color patterning.
popular kosode sash that holds the place is called Obi. Before the 1680s it was a narrow, flat tie or rope like a braid. It was only in the first decades of the 19th century that Obi has spread to below the chest under the belly.
Women did not differ for men and women. It consisted of hemp sandals or wooden clogs known as Geta, and flat-soled straw sandals, known as the dawn. All were attached to the foot with thongs and wearing a white cotton socks and tabi.
okobo high wooden salad maiko wears during the apprenticeship. They vary in color according to the status of the maiko.
pale skin is aesthetically pleasing, and sought after, this is the reason why women would whiten his face with rice powder. Eyes and lips are accentuated. Before the Meiji Restoration, the men also face painted with a thick paste of white powder. On the other hand, the black symbol of nobility, and it was an ancient tradition for men blacken their teeth.
is a popular hairstyle for women's hair was styled in making top coiffures and decorated with various pins and ornaments, which, as well as elaborate combs, Kush. Japanese women wore no other jewelry.
Women from the upper classes could go out in public and present a limited range of leisure activities, including Kabuki theater, where you could see and be seen. Both men and women wore their best clothes and to change clothes several times during the day long show. On the other hand, kabuki costumes were one of the most striking aspects of performance. They often set the fashion trends in Japan.
Tokugawa shogunate shoguns solidified the power of the stratified social system. They are ruled by different classes of warriors, farmers, artisans and merchants, the official name of the emperor, a fact he was stripped of his power. Settled in their habits and traditions, shoguns believed that Japan was immune to change and external influences. Their world, however, is already changing. European culture and Christianity, with its teachings of universal equality would prove subversive to established social system.
In the 17th century, Japan started the persecution of Christians and Japan withdrew from the outside world. self-imposed economic and political isolation, which lasted more than two hundred years, a time of prosperity and peace. Unfortunately, this will have serious consequences. When the 19 century Westerners returned with modern weapons, Japan's outdated military presents no challenge.
Japan witnessed the role the Europeans have played in the violent transformation of China and adopted a program of radical changes to his will. Unlike China, as the means for change. Tokugawa era brought economic success, which in turn led to a diverse society. Airport in Osaka, and Edo was transformed into a thriving metropolis and a change was already in the air before the U.S. Naval Commander Matthew Perry forced open relations with the Japanese in 1853.
Kimono and the Meiji Restoration
In 1867, the Tokugawa shogunate came to an end and the power was restored to the emperor Mutsuhito. Meiji ("enlightened rule") has started rehabilitation. The Japanese government intended to equality with the West and knew it would have on the West acieve conditions. In the first five years Japan has adopted prefectural system of administration, the postal system, daily newspaper, the Ministry of Education, Railways, Gregorian calendar, and military conscription. Samurai Warriors joined any army, the Prussians under the "leadership, or the Navy, alerted by the British. The young men were sent abroad to learn Western ways.
One of the innovations adopted from the West was made to measure dress. Western-style military uniforms and Western-style business suits worn in public, however, has no place in the privacy of the Japanese house. The traditional style of architecture are carpeted with tatami mats and many activities such as sleeping and eating are performed on the floor. -equipped costume was inappropriate and quite embarrassing. Instead, the Japanese wore loose sashed version of today's kimono.
Kimono or carry an object "is a word that in the late 1800s replaced the centuries-old notion kosode. accepted explanation for the change of conditions to be faced with the culture shock of finding themselves dressed in western clothes, Japanese felt compelled to find a new name for a historical costume.
wedding apparel containing white kimono, with black kimono or five-crested haori with haori rope over to the groom wears hakama, or a long skirt white pleated silk Sendai. The bride wears uchikake, or quilted robe, often with a pattern of cranes, waves, and boron, as symbols of happiness, with the under-kimono and Obi perfectly connected.
patterning of each type of kimono is strictly categorized. Styles include Dan ganwri, which consists of alternating blocks of similar motifs, kata gawariy in which the left and right halves of the kimono bearing a different design or soda gawariy in which each sleeve is patterned differently. Nature is a great present in motifs such as the blizzard-blown flowers, flowing water samples, or maple leaves scattered on the pine bark.
lingerie are equally complex. They are thin undershirt with short sleeves known as hadajuban, wraparound slip of light fabric - susoyoke, and the third under-kimono of light, white cloth. Long-wire rolls, pads, towels and lined vest used to even out any damage to the body line so it will hang perfectly kimono.
five crested haori is another aspect of the tradition behind this formal clothing. ridges related to the small circular motifs printed or woven into cloth haori, a person's clan of origin. Japanese heraldry over European consisting of 400 primary family crests, with more than 20,000 sublineages.
